Showing posts with label Seed. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Seed. Show all posts

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Haworthia seeds

All Andrew's Plants has moved to AllAndrewsPlants.wordpress.com

You can find this post here on my new site for the full post and to leave comments.


Apparently Haworthia limifolia var. limifolia can self polinate, but rarely. This plant has literally had flowers on it all summer. It's currently got three bloom stalks going at once and has produced hundreds of flowers (likely near or over 100 per stalk total, two or three per day per stalk - the third stalk only started a few weeks ago though), and I have a single fruit developing to show for it.


Haworthia limifolia var. limifolia developing fruit
Haworthia limifolia var. limifolia developing fruit

Haworthia limifolia var. limifolia
Bonus - check out this colour it's gotten in full sun this summer.


Will be interesting to see what I can get to grow from these seeds.

Monday, February 1, 2010

Seeds arrived!

All Andrew's Plants has moved to AllAndrewsPlants.wordpress.com

You can find this post here on my new site for the full post and to leave comments.


They're here!

These are the instructions I've managed to pull together from the web for all the plants, but especially with regard to what I should be doing right now.



They even used an orchid stamp on the envelope! Nice neat little clearly labled bags, Echeveria and Lapidaria both in smaller bags in the larger because they were so tiny to the far left. Ficus elastica just right of those with the Tillandsias below. A. bulbifer, Heliconia, and Musella are the larger seeds to the right.


Amorphophallus bulbifer:

Seeds should be sown as soon as possible.

Sow seeds at 5mm - 3/4" (depending on who you ask) depth in a well draining mix. Water when the soil is almost dry to this depth. Keep warm and in bright indirect light. Light should be increased slightly as the seedlings sprout, continue watering as before, the roots should not be allowed to dry completely.

Germination should be quick, within 1-3 weeks.

These should be easy as long as the seeds are fresh. Over and over again I have read that these are extremely easy as long as the seeds are fresh. Dry seeds will not germinate.

These look fairly dry. :( I don't really know what fresh seed looks like. Not off to a good start!

Tillandsia spp.:

Seeds should be sown as soon as possible.

These germinate quickly but grow slowly. I may see some growth as early as two weeks from now, most should germinate within 4 weeks, some may take longer.

Seeds should be sterilized first to kill off any molds or fungi on the seeds that will take over in the warm moist conditions the seeds will need. This involves soaking the seeds for 24 hours in a sugar solution, then draining and briefly soaking in a mild bleach solution before sowing the seeds. Details are in that link.

Keep the media they are sown on moist at all times drying but never wet (good air circulation is important). Humidity should be high, long days are important with bright light (but lower light than a mature plant would like). I may want to use RO water or a RO/tap mix because the seedlings will not tolerate water that is too hard.

The seeds should be sown on something that will not hold too much water or break down within 3 years. The more spaced out the seeds are the better, you don't want to be moving these for a few years (after three years is a safe bet, that's when their growth will increase).

As seedlings grow and develop more leaves humidity can be gradually reduced, light increased and seedlings moved or spaced out more.

It will likely take at least 4 years for the seedlings to reach blooming size. Likely much longer because these are both larger species.

These seeds are small but look good from everything I've read. I chose to mount mine on thick pieces of white velcro. They'll be going in a sterilized 5 gallon terrarium under lights.

Ficus elastica:

Pre-soak seeds for 12-24 hours.

Sow seeds on the surface of a well draining mix (they need light to germinate). Keep seedlings evenly moist, reducing water when they are larger and watering when approaching dry.

Germination should take between 2-4 weeks.

I have not had much luck tracking down information specific to this species. Fortunately at 65 cents for 10 seeds for a plant I don't feel strongly about this is a bonus plant if I get anything from them. I'll treat them like most other seeds.

They will join my Tillandsias in my 5 gallon terrarium. Probably in 3 little pots, 3-4 seeds in each.

Heliconia wagneriana:

Scarify the seeds then soak for a minimum of four days, changing the water daily (have seen this as high as 15 days recommended depending on who you ask). Plant no more than 3/4" deep and keep warm.

Germination may take months, as long as a year is not out of the question. They are soaking now. Will update later with their status.

These are soaking, and will continue to do so for a while.

Musella Lasiocarpa:

Requires cool stratification for 6-8 weeks. If any sprout during that time plant them but leave others. Will update later once things are going. Fortunately by the time I'm potting these keeping the seeds warm will be no problem, and some of the other seedlings may already be growing or otherwise moved away from prime seed starting territory.

Mine are in the fridge.

Echeveria and Lapidaria margaretae:

Sow in a very well drained mix and cover lightly with a fine layer of vermiculite (I've read that 1mm deep is a target here). Keep warm and under lights. Keep the surface of the mix moist but not wet.

Germination may take 30-180 days.

Again here fresh seed is better, anything older than 12 months is garbage. Echeveria are known to be difficult to grow from seed.

Lapidaria are supposed to be easier, according to one site I found, and prefer temperatures on the cooler side of warm (~22C). Possibly better sown on the surface rather than under a mm of vermiculite? I have read both, might try both.

These are tiny. I'll be sowing them on the surface of a seed starting soil + extra perlite mixed in. Also into the terrarium though more likely spread over the surface of some sort of tray (either one for Echeveria and one for Lapidaria or 3, 1 per seed bag, will have to see what size trays I can find (tonight)) since the seeds are so tiny.

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Seed order

All Andrew's Plants has moved to AllAndrewsPlants.wordpress.com

You can find this post here on my new site for the full post and to leave comments.


It's my first time since Kindergarten that I'll be trying to grow something from seed.

My current list (so far) is so much more awesome than whatever type of bean we grew back then.


Amorphophallus bulbifer - this is the reason I'm placing the order. Love the colour on the inside of the spathe, love the patterning on the outside and on the peduncle (the same as on the petiole when it produces its leaf).
(photo by scott.zona used under CC license from here)


10 Amorphophallus bulbifer seeds
10 Tillandsia polita seeds
12-15 Echeveria seeds (mix)
10 Lapidaria margaretae seeds
10 Ficus elastica seeds

And I'm only half way to the minimum order.

I had more in my list but Tillandsia rotundata sold out within the last few hours and I've been reading up on Cycas revoluta seeds... and I don't think so. The female plants will apparently produce seeds which are not fertilized and will never sprout. The grower should be making sure that these don't ship but you never know. Germinating them takes a long time and is overall a fairly complicated process. They are also by far the most expensive seeds from this list and on top of all that they are toxic to cats, dogs and potentially the niece/nephew. I just don't think it's worth it right now.

Lithops are out of stock right now and I don't want to get into things like "mixed aloe" or "mixed agave" seeds (or even worse, "mixed cactus"). Plumaria mix is sold out as well.

I figure if all I can get out of this is 2-3 A. bulbifer (they apparently produce enough offsets/"bulbils" that even just one will be a few in very little time), 2-3 Tillandsias and a few Echeverias that I maybe will have gotten my money's worth.

I don't know if I should start adding things I don't really want or just double up on everything I already have there to double my chances of success... I Think I'll double the Echeverias since they're a mix and that'll increase my chances of getting something really nice out of them. For everything else though I'll either have success or not... and if not then do I really want to lose 20 seeds? if so do I really need 20 plants?

Currently considering adding the following to the above:
a further 12-15 Echeveria mix
10 Tillandsia polystachia
10 Heliconia wagneriana (Medium size for a Heliconia, can reach 6-8' but not so likely in a pot. Can flower in a pot.)
10 Musella Lasiocarpa (Banana relative, stays small, 4' or less)

This would bring me up to the minimum order, plus shipping and I'm still under $20.

----------

Alright well my order is placed and here we go.

Final list:
10 A. bulbifer
10 Tillandsia polita
24-30 Echeveria seeds (mix)
10 Lapidaria margaretae
10 Ficus elastica
10 Tillandsia polystachia
10 Heliconia wagneriana
10 Musella Lasiocarpa

Hmm. That's a lot of plants. The Tillandsias require light to germinate, the Echiverias and Lapidaria benefit from it ("do not exclude light"), the Musella needs cold stratification, the Heliconia needs to be kept at a soil temperature of at least 75F to germinate and may take a long time (shorter with scarification, also required/suggested for Musella) before I see anything. This will be interesting, and certainly a learning experience. And sure to fill every last surface in my house for the next few weeks.