Monday, February 1, 2010

Seeds arrived!

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They're here!

These are the instructions I've managed to pull together from the web for all the plants, but especially with regard to what I should be doing right now.



They even used an orchid stamp on the envelope! Nice neat little clearly labled bags, Echeveria and Lapidaria both in smaller bags in the larger because they were so tiny to the far left. Ficus elastica just right of those with the Tillandsias below. A. bulbifer, Heliconia, and Musella are the larger seeds to the right.


Amorphophallus bulbifer:

Seeds should be sown as soon as possible.

Sow seeds at 5mm - 3/4" (depending on who you ask) depth in a well draining mix. Water when the soil is almost dry to this depth. Keep warm and in bright indirect light. Light should be increased slightly as the seedlings sprout, continue watering as before, the roots should not be allowed to dry completely.

Germination should be quick, within 1-3 weeks.

These should be easy as long as the seeds are fresh. Over and over again I have read that these are extremely easy as long as the seeds are fresh. Dry seeds will not germinate.

These look fairly dry. :( I don't really know what fresh seed looks like. Not off to a good start!

Tillandsia spp.:

Seeds should be sown as soon as possible.

These germinate quickly but grow slowly. I may see some growth as early as two weeks from now, most should germinate within 4 weeks, some may take longer.

Seeds should be sterilized first to kill off any molds or fungi on the seeds that will take over in the warm moist conditions the seeds will need. This involves soaking the seeds for 24 hours in a sugar solution, then draining and briefly soaking in a mild bleach solution before sowing the seeds. Details are in that link.

Keep the media they are sown on moist at all times drying but never wet (good air circulation is important). Humidity should be high, long days are important with bright light (but lower light than a mature plant would like). I may want to use RO water or a RO/tap mix because the seedlings will not tolerate water that is too hard.

The seeds should be sown on something that will not hold too much water or break down within 3 years. The more spaced out the seeds are the better, you don't want to be moving these for a few years (after three years is a safe bet, that's when their growth will increase).

As seedlings grow and develop more leaves humidity can be gradually reduced, light increased and seedlings moved or spaced out more.

It will likely take at least 4 years for the seedlings to reach blooming size. Likely much longer because these are both larger species.

These seeds are small but look good from everything I've read. I chose to mount mine on thick pieces of white velcro. They'll be going in a sterilized 5 gallon terrarium under lights.

Ficus elastica:

Pre-soak seeds for 12-24 hours.

Sow seeds on the surface of a well draining mix (they need light to germinate). Keep seedlings evenly moist, reducing water when they are larger and watering when approaching dry.

Germination should take between 2-4 weeks.

I have not had much luck tracking down information specific to this species. Fortunately at 65 cents for 10 seeds for a plant I don't feel strongly about this is a bonus plant if I get anything from them. I'll treat them like most other seeds.

They will join my Tillandsias in my 5 gallon terrarium. Probably in 3 little pots, 3-4 seeds in each.

Heliconia wagneriana:

Scarify the seeds then soak for a minimum of four days, changing the water daily (have seen this as high as 15 days recommended depending on who you ask). Plant no more than 3/4" deep and keep warm.

Germination may take months, as long as a year is not out of the question. They are soaking now. Will update later with their status.

These are soaking, and will continue to do so for a while.

Musella Lasiocarpa:

Requires cool stratification for 6-8 weeks. If any sprout during that time plant them but leave others. Will update later once things are going. Fortunately by the time I'm potting these keeping the seeds warm will be no problem, and some of the other seedlings may already be growing or otherwise moved away from prime seed starting territory.

Mine are in the fridge.

Echeveria and Lapidaria margaretae:

Sow in a very well drained mix and cover lightly with a fine layer of vermiculite (I've read that 1mm deep is a target here). Keep warm and under lights. Keep the surface of the mix moist but not wet.

Germination may take 30-180 days.

Again here fresh seed is better, anything older than 12 months is garbage. Echeveria are known to be difficult to grow from seed.

Lapidaria are supposed to be easier, according to one site I found, and prefer temperatures on the cooler side of warm (~22C). Possibly better sown on the surface rather than under a mm of vermiculite? I have read both, might try both.

These are tiny. I'll be sowing them on the surface of a seed starting soil + extra perlite mixed in. Also into the terrarium though more likely spread over the surface of some sort of tray (either one for Echeveria and one for Lapidaria or 3, 1 per seed bag, will have to see what size trays I can find (tonight)) since the seeds are so tiny.

5 comments:

  1. The Tillandsias are fun. I have not seen them available commercially by seed, but they do reproduce by seed.
    The Echeveria and Ficus are cool too. Can you let me know either on comment or email where you picked up the Tillandsia seed? I have a propagation class I am taking that I think they would be fun to introduce.
    Matti

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  2. Good luck with your seedlings! I planted some Ficus auriculata yesterday the seeds are almost as tiny as dust.

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  3. Very interesting spp. I'll be interested to hear how it goes!

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  4. They came from rarexoticseeds.com

    The Ficus elastica seeds were about the size of the head on a pin, slightly larger than a grain of salt.

    The Echeveria and Lapidaria... basically looked like dust. So very tiny.

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  5. so... hows it going? I'm particularly curious about your Lapidaria seedlings...

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